5 Tricks to Tell if Your Skincare is Taking Shortcuts…

1. The First Ingredient Rule

The first ingredient of a skincare product typically is about 75-90% of the product. If your product lists the first ingredient as water, aloe, or some other inactive ingredient, you are likely overpaying. Products following the first ingredient typically range anywhere from 1-10%. Because ingredients are listed by the amount in the bottle, you want to see the active ingredients towards the top of the ingredient list.

*this rule applies to natural skincare. If you are using a chemical skincare, active ingredients if used in high quantities can actually burn your skin. We always recommend natural skincare.

2. What Is an Extract

Often times you will see a plant material listed as an “extract”, but what does that mean exactly? An extract is a way for skincare manufacturers to buy a plant in a processed liquid or powdered form. These plant extracts are obtained through an extraction process that leaves the ingredient less bio-compatible and bio-active than using whole plant ingredients. This is often done to as a cost savings for skincare companies and/or to make products more shelf table, but leaves the formula lacking essential skin-loving nutrition.

3. Fragrances

Near the end of the ingredients list you may see added fragrances (Fragrance / Parfum). U.S. regulations do not require companies to disclose what the “fragrance” is made of. Leaving a lot of room for skin-irritating toxins, allergens, or other irritants to sneak into your skincare. Skincare companies often do this because they last longer and are much cheaper than the natural option: Essential Oils. 

Essential Oils are 100% natural, plant oils obtained through distillation. A process that has been done for centuries and provides not just a wonderful, natural scent, but also healing aromatherapy. This process can be time consuming and expensive, but your skin will notice the difference.

4. Reading the Label

In general, you want to be able to read the label. Ingredients are usually listed by their International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients (INCI) name, followed by their common name in parentheses; for example: Nigella Sativa (Black Cumin) Seed Oil. If ingredients are starting to sound too complex and the ingredient list is getting very long, it’s time to raise an eyebrow and look into it a little more before putting it on your skin.

5. Red Flags

Reading labels is time consuming at first, but once you find a product you trust and love, your research is done. While you’re still looking for that perfect product for your skin, here are some ingredients that should never be in your skincare routine. Many of these are outlawed for cosmetic use around the world, but still allowed in the U.S.

Here are some ingredients you always want to avoid:

BHA/BUTYLATED HYDROXYANISOLE

BHT/BUTYLATED HYDROXYTOLUENE
CETEARETH GLYCOL
DIAZOLIDINYL UREA
DIBUTYL PHTHALATE

DMDM HYDANTOIN

EDTA
Calcium Disodium EDTA
Tetrasodium EDTA

Trisodium EDTA

EMULSIFYING WAX NF
ETHANOLAMINES

DEA/TEA/MEA/ETA

Monoethanolamine

Diethanolamine

Triethanolamine

Ethanolamine
HYDROQUINONE

MIDAZOLIDINYL UREA
METHYISOTHIAZOLINONE
METHOCHLOROISOTHIAZOLINONE

MINERAL OIL
OXYBENZONE (found in sunscreen)
PARABENS:
Ingredients beginning with Methyl-, Propyl-, Butyl-, Ethyl-Paraben
PEG/POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL

There are more than 900 different “PEG-S” with varying concerns
PHENOXYETHANOL (commonly found in “natural” skincare)
POLYSORBATE -20, -40, -60, -80
QUATERNIUM-15
RESORCINOL

SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE

TALC

TOLUENE

TRICLOSAN

TREITHANOLAMINE